Poor, poorer, poorest, San Salvador: that is probably the feeling you get when you finally reach the capital and you are travelling from Mexico in the north to Costa Rica in the south. And yes, some areas of San Salvador are crime-infested because of the drug gangs. But the city also has some incredible landmarks and stunning scenery, perched between the hills.
So yes, you should actually visit San Salvador. Make up your own mind. Enjoy the art. Enjoy the chaos. 24 hours does not do this city justice, but it’s a good first taste…
Morning
Basically, San Salvador is made for cars. So it ain’t easy to find a place for breakfast outside the city centre. Head to the western edge though, to the Zona Rosa / Colonia San Benito, and you will be surprised how leafy and luxurious it is around here.
Apart from the bigger American chains (Denny’s, McDonald’s) you can also find more local eateries here. Between the Square of Italy and the modern art museum, along Avenida Revolucion, you can find 1 or 2 of them. And how better to start the day here than with a pupusa (filled bread), the national specialty?
At the end of the road, a giant sculpture / concrete thing (subject to your taste) gives away that you are approaching the Museum of Art of El Salvador (MARTE, marte.org.sv). Inside the squeaky white, modernist, well-maintained building is an astonishing collection of national art.
This being Central America, the focus is obviously around paintings because paint is the material most readily available in this region. What is most impressive here is actually how art is being used to digest the violent recent history of the country. Some of the works are very much in-your-face, others are silent comments on the political situation or are in one or the other way trying to heal.
Add to this the excellent temporary exhibitions and you get an idea why the MARTE is one of the best museums of Central America and well worth your entire morning. Round off your visit with a walk around the area and catch a bus (or a taxi) towards the center.
Afternoon
The proper Latin American thing to do is obviously to have lunch in one of the many markets. The mercado Ex-Cuartel is one of the loudest and will strip you of any fears to indulge in local society. This one is always busy, so take care of your belongings and keep smiling.
If a market is too much chaos for you, the stretch of Calle Delgado around Morazan square is a safe bet. Prices for a lunch are almost at European levels here, so no risk of bad surprises here.
And it is a convenient base to start exploring the centre of San Salvador. The Plaza Civica is the first focal point, with the National Palace on its western side, the library in the south, and the impressive Catedral Metropolitano to the north. That one has entrances on both sides, and at first you will be drawn into the main church. The stained-glass windows make this space a feast for the eyes, an astonishing display of light and a great teaser for a bigger surprise in the area.
The real draw of the cathedral though is in the basement. It is the grave of archbishop Oscar Romero. He was the focal point of protests against the dictatorship in 1980, the year when he was murdered by the government at a small chapel in a hospital in San Salvador. 250,000 people visited his funeral. It’s not a surprise many Salvadorans still visit his grave. The white artificial light gives this tomb a bit of a strange, creepy feeling, so this is one where you are probably not going to stay too long.
Once outside, make a round to admire the beautiful National Theatre. If you turn right at the funny, art-deco Cine Metro you will find the second important square, the Libertad Plaza. The main draw is the ugly, strange, concrete hyperbolic building on the eastern side.
It doesn’t look special from the outside, and to find the entrance you have to go to the southeastern edge and walk into 4a Calle Ote for 50 metres before you find the gates on your left. This does not look like the most beautiful church of Central America… until you enter.
The semi-circular construction was designed to allow light coming in from the east (in the morning) and west (in the evening). So when you visit, do it either early in the day or late in the afternoon. Glass in all colors creates a rainbow effect throughout this majestic building. It is so simple though so genius you cannot help but stare for the first few minutes.
Once outside again, just enjoy a walk in the surrounding streets. People are actually selling ANYTHING on the pavements. And the street markets in and around 4a Calle Poniente give you a glimpse of true Salvador life. Don’t be scared but also don’t be too naive: just keep moving and keep your belongings close to you. And after that, you have truly deserved a break in your hotel.
Evening
Downtown definitely ain’t no place to hang out after dark. The best areas are actually west from the Alameda Manuel Enrique Araujo, the big road that marks the western edge of the centre. Beyond that you will find the Zona Rosa, mentioned before, and the Colonia Escalon which is a bit further north.
These are actually areas where you can walk around safely and can find swanky restaurants. Another safe option is the stretch of chain restaurants east of the square of the Monument to the Divine Savior to the World (now who would that be???). Cosy it ain’t, but the likes of the Pizza Hut at least give you a solid choice. As said: Escalon and Zona Rosa are the more Salvadoran options, and also a great place to enjoy the posh parts of San Salvador and indulge in a cocktail or two, before you finally head for bed.
Good to know
- Obviously, the city is too big to cover in one day. We’ll get back here for a 72-hour-stretch in the future, but to give you some ideas how to spend your time here:
- Panchimolco: a couple of kilometres south of the city, this art village is a haven of peace compared to San Salvador and a good daytrip
- Volcan El Boqueron is on the western edge of the city. There is a paved path (around $3 entrance) towards a beautiful view point of the city. Check the weather forecast beforehand though because it can be foggy and smoggy
- Centro Historico Monsenor Romero: dedicated to the murdered archbishop, this place tells the story of his life. Located south of the UCA university grounds
- Jardin Botanico La Lagunba: after visiting the Romero center, this botanical garden in the same area is a treat of nature
- Colonia Escalon: full of shops and cafes, this is a pleasant suburb to spend walking around, also in the evening
- Safety: the reputation of San Salvador is not entirely undeserved, especially if you look at the crime statistics. On the other hand, just as in other Central American capitals crime is almost always connected with drug gangs and/or extreme poverty. Use common sense (no visible valuables, no huge amounts of money, only one payment card, use cash machines in public places) to avoid obvious trouble. Downtown is alright during the day, avoid it after dark. The eastern neighborhoods should be avoided at any cost. Zona Rosa and Colonia Escalon are in general safe. If in doubt, use a taxi, especially in the evening
- Getting there and around: the capital is obviously well-connected to other places in Salvador, mainly by chicken buses and minivans. Most of them leave or pass the Terminal Occidente (destinations in the west), Sur (south & southeast) and Oriente (north and east), from which you can walk or take a taxi to your final destination within the city. Buses ron until around 7.30pm, after that you need a taxi anyway. International connections are best done by luxury coaches, with the additional benefit that the personnel is used to crossing borders and can assist you with the procedures if there are any problems. Platinumcentroamerica.com has services to and from Nicaragua (Leon and Granada, sometimes through Esteli as well). Tica Bus is doing the same, both have offices in the Zona Rosa (and Tica near the city centre in Calle Concepcion as well). An alternative is to travel to El Tunco and book a minivan through Gekko Trail Explorer. All these companies also have connections to Guatemala, usually Antigua and Guatemala City. In all cases the website doesn’t always show reliable schedules, it’s best to pay them a visit