Sweet little Suchi is a traveler’s favorite. Cobblestone streets, a laid-back vibe, colonial architecture and views of the nearby lake everywhere: the basic conditions for some relaxed days are definitely there.
But there is also something that feels a bit off in Suchitoto. The local population still looks at all the foreign visitors as if they are a rare species. It is genuinely calm and quiet here compared to for example Antigua in Guatemala, which has been completely swallowed by the tourism monster. Whether you like the more relaxed Suchi vibe or the comfort of Antigua, that is up to you.
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General introduction
Two hours by car away fro the capital San Salvador, up in the northern hills, Suchitoto is popular amongst visitors. This being El Salvador, the absolute numbers are still limited, which one might consider a blessing.
The village is centuries old, actually considered the original capital of the country when the Spanish came in 1528. But around 1545 the capital was moved to Valle de las Hamacas, current-day San Salvador.
Time seems to have stood still in Suchitoto. The typical grid-like structure of the town is punctuated by the main square, in front of the Santa Lucia church. Both church and square have been recently renovated. Three blocks further to the west is the San Martin park, which is greener and has some eateries and cafes with great views of the lake nearby. Talking about the lake: it’s not natural, but created between 1973 and 1976 as part of the Cerron Grande hydroelectric project. That doesn’t take anything away from the magic of the place.
It has attracted artists for that reason for a long time. That translates into many small galleries everywhere. Just wander around and let yourself be surprised!
Food and drinks
As said, Suchitoto is situated on a hilltop and nowadays everything revolves around views of the lake (which was formerly just a river). The local gastronomy is partially focused on those views as well. Especially along 6a Calle Pte there are several eateries and cafes with great views. Many of those are only open during daylight hours (until around 6pm-7pm depending on the season).
The best one though is a bit further north, the Casa 1800. It is a branch of a national chain with four eateries in exclusive locations, another one for example has volcano vistas in Cerro Verde. This one in Suchitoto has of course lakeside views and good food in a luscious garden. Next door is the also exquisite Restaurante Vista Hermosa. Those who speak Spanish know the name says it all.
The most swanky option, though still affordable, is in the boutique hotel Los Almendros de San Lorenzo. It has an excellent restaurant. Most of the other options have more average food. Opposite of Los Almendros is El Rinconcito del Sabor, with burgers, meat plates and fish. Villa Balanza has similar options, down the road at San Martin park. El Harlequin is in a great location, though foodwise a bit overrated or overpriced. And there are of course pupuserias everywhere.
Activities / things to do
The great thing about Suchitoto is that it is so relaxed. The other side of the medal is that there is not so much to do. But there are several options still:
- the main thing of course is to go down to the lake (by foot, or a local taxi). There are boat tours on the lake there, some food stalls, and a car ferry for those wishing to move further north and possibly across the border with Honduras. There are swimming options as well
- the Art Center for Peace is more a local cultural center, but displays some artworks as well. it is partly located in a beautiful former church
- the Museum of the Thousand Plates is a funny, quirky museum one block away from the main square
- just outside of town are Los Tercios waterfalls. They are not always open so you have to be lucky, but it is an easy one hour return trip by foot from the entrance. Around the corner is a mirador (lookout) with some decent food and drink options as well
- Suchitoto is known for its many artists. Not surprising, there are plenty of small galleries when you wander around
- Guazapo volcano is around thirty minutes driving away. It is not so easy to find good itineraries online, nor are guided tours easy to find. This is El Salvador after all. But if you manage to find one, it is said to be a great multi-hour walk, including several former guerilla sites dating back to the civil war in the 1980s
Getting to Suchitoto and getting around
- bus: from the main bus stations in San Salvador there are direct connections. Roads from the capital to Suchitoto are not great though. Same of course goes for if you have a car yourself
- within the town: you can walk almost everywhere. For the lake or the waterfalls you can also take a local small taxi
Miscellaneous
- Weather: warmer than you might expect. When we were there it was consistently slightly over thirty degrees during the day. It does cool down during the night, but not nearly as much as up in the western mountains in the towns along the Ruta de Flores / Flower Route
- Safety: not really an issue. Some streets though (for example 6a Calle Pte) become deserted and dark after sunset, so you might want to avoid them
