MARTE: stunning modern art in San Salvador

You wouldn’t expect a naked guy in the middle of San Salvador. But this one is at least twelve metres high, painted on a concrete concave-shaped wall in front of the fantastic MARTE modern art museum.

Yes, modern art in one of the poorest countries in the world. Art keeps the mind sane in crazy times. El Salvador had plenty of those. So it doesn’t come as a surprise that a sculpture of a begging, desperate man awaits you at the start of the permanent exhibition.

MARTE

The MARTE (Museo de Arte Moderno San Salvador) was opened in 2003 in the uphill Colonia San Benito. It’s a clean modernist building, with white walls, clear lines and high ceilings.

For outsiders it is surprising there is so much good art on display here, especially in the permanent exhibition. But this country has a rich history of great artists: Raul Elas Reyes, Muriel Hasbun, Valera Lecha, Camilo Minero and Dagoberto Nolasco to name a few.

Their works can be seen in the first rooms you will probably visit, and will leave a lasting impression on your mood for the rest of the day. These are mainly paintings, obviously showing the pain and despair of the Civil War between 1980 and 1992. It is surrealism, brought to a tangible level.

In fact, the naked guy in front of the museum is a hommage to the end of that war. Ruben Martinez, also the sculptor and architect of the impressive and unforgettable Iglesia El Rosario in the city center, is apparently the mastermind behind this piece. Monument to the Revolution is better known as El Chulon: The Naked Guy. A guy that stretches out his arms towards freedom and liberty.

Iconic artwork / sculpture in front of the MARTE museum in San Salvador

Entrance corridor to the MARTE museum in San Salvador

Textile artwork in MARTE museum in San Salvador

Sculpture in MARTE museum in San Salvador

Painting about the civil war in MARTE museum in San Salvador

Modern artwork in MARTE museum in San Salvador

Jardin de las Artes

There are more sculptures outside in the Jardin de las Artes. But you might want to sneak inside again to also explore the temporary exhibitions in six big rooms. There was some impressive stuff by local artists on display when we visited, and exhibitions change every 1-3 months.
Not satisfied still? Finish your visit in style at the Punto Literario restaurant / cafe, which is a bit upmarket and also really good. And then off to drink a cocktail in the swanky La Benito area?!