The road to this Guadalajara stadium feels similar. Take the metro bus from Parque Revolucion westwards. Exit near the Parque Funeral Colonias. Cross the big street and you can already see the Chivas Stadium.
What the map didn’t really tell me, is that the big street is an almost impenetrable highway. One of the few bridges across is only reachable by walking thirty minutes from the closest bus stop, through an area of town that would be called a favela in other countries. Cobblestone streets, ramshackle houses: this ain’t an area to be left to your own devices at night.
Once you make it across the bridge, you’re close but of course still pretty faraway. The buildings of the justice department and the university block the view of the stadium, and obviously there is hardly any walkway in sight. Mexicans look weary at the foreigner in shorts (in January with 25 degrees celsius, he must be crazy!). And once you finally make it around the corner, away from the highway, the sight of the stadium is almost a fata morgana. Rising from the earth, with a grass surface growing on its concrete exterior, and finished with a mathematical perfect saucer almost hovering on top of it. This is indeed almost a UFO.
What could possibly go wrong?
Good to know:
- most Spanish-speaking leagues have two seasons a year. Mexico is no exception. The Apertura is from August until December, the Clausura from January to May. Both seasons end with a two-legged final between the two best teams. So, yes, a year has two champions in Mexico…
- The average attendance of around 25,000 shows that the Mexican league has a strong following and some big clubs. Besides Chivas, the city of Guadalajara also has Atlas which plays in the Jalisco stadium. Mexico City has Cruz Azul and America – which at the moment both play in the world-famous Azteca – and UNAM which plays in the Olympic stadium. Monterrey is another hotbed of Mexican football, with Monterrey Club and with regional rivals Tigres, who have become champions regularly in recent years
- Buying tickets is easy enough. On the website of Chivas is a list of pre-sale addresses, spread across town. Just pick one of them and get your ticket. Expect to pay in cash though. Only for the derby against America it might be more difficult to get tickets
- Getting to and from Chivas stadium: as said, public transport is very very difficult. The alternative though is to get a taxi, plenty of them outside the stadium after the match. Expect to pay a solid amount of money though, because the arena is 15 kilometres away from the city centre